Galiwin'ku seems like a dream now! We've been in Wadeye 3 weeks. I was sad to leave, but felt the whole experience was very worthwhile; at the very least, it was good to facilitate the registrars staying there till the end of their term. I flew out with them and Jeremy's parents, on Saturday morning - only one flight a day to Elcho. I got up early, went bird watching, checked in my stuff at the airport, home for the last tidy up - after a swing by the registrars' place to see a recently created bower.
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the bower from side-on. about 30cm high |
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the bower from end-on. I would love to see the male displaying there! See all the green things he's collected. |
A lovely beach walk my last night - mine the only footprints on the sand.
With the registrars, waiting for the plane
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It was great to meet up with Tim in Darwin! And we had a good weekend there before coming out to Wadeye. We caught up with Julie U'Ren and Dave Pugh (she's Tim's cousin) - and their family.
Wadeye. The familiar. It's good to be back. The team seems to be functioning well and reasonably settled. Tracey is an energetic leader. As in previous years, Tim's working in the acute area, and I'm in the chronic conditions area, focussing on catching up with checkups for people with rheumatic heart disease, and also people with diabetes and/or kidney disease. So there's plenty to do! Sometimes I've found I'm not too busy - partly because people don't always want to come for checkups. But I've had some great conversations with people. It's always good to see people we've met before. Often they remember us. We of course have the advantage of the medical record to help our memory. It does seem though, that returning several times is building some relationships and rapport. I think we are also feeling more comfortable, as well as being very aware that we're still learning.
The clinic is quite well staffed at the moment, so I'm working in a room which used to be an office. On the shelf I found a cultural orientation book, and some language resources. It's really interesting to read the cultural information. I've made some notes on the 22 clans - their language, totems, the family groups and the traditional owners. It's a good thing to talk about - where their country is, how often they visit, the kinds of bush food available there etc. Some clans' country is 2 hours' drive away.
We had a "scabies day" last week. The clinic was closed for the day, and the team divided into small groups to drive around the community giving out soap, washing powder and scabies cream, to try and treat everyone all at once. The council had been around earlier giving out plastic bags for a rubbish collection. Many people were cleaning up their yards. One lady was glad when we came - it gave her an excuse to stop raking and tidying, and sit down to rest. It all felt quite paternalistic in a way. Tim and I were apprehensive about it. But it didn't turn out that way. We were mostly well received, and people accepted the soap and cream, and listened to the explanations. So many people live in each house! We had some fun and good chats with people. There was a BBQ lunch in town, put on by the clinic - for the whole community. Sausages and white bread! I'm not sure that's a good health message.
I went in to Darwin later that day, for a GP supervisors' training day. Tim came in the next day (Friday) after work. And we had the weekend in Darwin. It was great fun! Botanic Gardens, and Museum-and-Art-Gallery - had the entries for the national indigenous art award. It was great to spend time there. And a great cafe in both places! We also saw "Charlie's Country" at the Deckchair Cinema - a great movie, and fun to see it at that venue. We met a lady there with whom we'd trekked in Nepal with the Leprosy Mussion! We did a bit of food shopping, and I went for a swim. Lovely.
We've been assigned a different house this time, and it's very comfortable, right on the edge of the town - it looks out over the cemetery. The need to lock gates and doors is sad, and a contrast to Galiwin'ku; also the midgies here mean that we can't sit outside on the veranda - which was just so lovely in Galiwin'ku. Comparisons are odious!! I've found a new bird watching spot and continue to enjoy weekend mornings in the bush, just wandering slowly, listening, looking. I've also walked out out to Blue Bucket a few times after work. Continuing further along that track would lead to the White Subaru, and Dee Creek. Turning off the track leads to Air Force Hill, the back way (the usual way is along the main road into town) - you know it's the right way, because you pass Washing Machine. These are the kinds of landmarks that our western mind can understand! I have a great respect for the Aboriginal people who just know their way about. Their landmarks are things that we may not see, but they are there, and they have meaning in the whole scheme of life and worldview.
Blue Bucket used to be on a tree - but at least it's still there!
On the way home from Blue Bucket
We've enjoyed a couple of BBQs at the beach, and it's great to take team members who haven't been there before! It's great to get out of town and see the water, and of course the sunset over the water is always a great treat for us Southerners. I don't think you can have too many sunset photos..
Christobel is still wandering around the community!
We look out onto the cemetery
We we're given some mudcrabs last night! So then we had the challenge of cooking & preparing. Quite yummy, surprisingly so for a creature that lives in mud. Tim couldn't eat them in case of the shellfish allergy.
Yesterday (Sunday) we had a phone call from one of the team, advising there was a lot of alcohol about, with fighting & injuries, and the police wanted us all to stay at home all locked up. We did go out for a walk later in the day, out past Blue Bucket. We heard today that someone died last night - rolled the car. It's so sad - it was a guy Tim had seen recently, someone motivated to work on his health. Then a family member came to see us today - quite upset - that makes two family members they have to bury out at her father's country .
Beautiful new buds & shoots in a dry & burnt area. Perhaps there is hope. It's hard to see sometimes - but it is there