Nhulunbuy via Darwin!

19 August 

It's great to be back in Nhulunbuy. That's an understatement! 

The time in Darwin was good, worthwhile I think. The 5 days went really quickly. I was rostered supernumerary to ED Majors each day. I had orientation, and the first day I just watched, trying to work out how to use the computer systems, and also being involved in things happening. I think I was a bit spacey! The next days I saw patients and also had time to be involved in procedures and things, including one successful recovery from cardiac arrest! The Majors section of ED is amazing really, so busy. It's a big place, with 260 staff (that's for the whole ED). And they can't go on bypass, well, there's nowhere else for people to go. 

While there, I was able to go to the weekly Yolngu language course class at the uni. I shared a taxi with an Aboriginal Health Practitioner from Daly River! Felt like someone from home! He was in Darwin upskilling in palliative care, which was so encouraging to hear. The language class was great, so good to meet people and clarify a few things.

So now, Nhulunbuy. It just feels so good to be here. So good to see Andy, Cathy and the girls. I've had 2 days hospital orientation and then the weekend off, and I've now worked 2 days in ED. I'm starting to feel more comfortable with the systems. It feels like a good vibe. 

Out birdwatching last weekend, a lady came up with binoculars! We got talking. She's been here for many years and is very knowledgeable - and happy to have a companion for birdwatching! We'll try for once a week or so. 

Tim's gone down to Victoria for Rae Kube's funeral. It's today. I'm so glad he was able to go. She was such a special person. Having booked, he nearly didn't make it, because the flight to Cairns was delayed 5 hours! That's relatively common here. Fortunately we found out the night before, and he could get a later flight to Melbourne. He'll travel back tomorrow. I'm hoping it'll be a good family time, a significant time to honour Rae, and a special time to connect with others.

Now the other news. Rikky is engaged to Will Goodrich! We are very pleased. He's a great guy and they are good together. They share a strong faith connection, a love of outdoors, and a laid back approach to life. So it's all very exciting. 

Part of the Yolngu kinship system: so important to understand this, to know how to relate. One of my ED patients was a son from Wandwuy.

Country

6 August

I'm leaving Wadeye today - actually in the air as I write. 

Yesterday I saw an old lady for a health check. I remember her from each time I've been here. She lives in the town but her homeland is a long way away, next to the Moyle River. 

She told me about her last visit out there with family. They had a good time hunting for mussels & mud crabs. One of them found human skeletons! They called the police from Darwin, who came and checked it all out, and asked her what she'd like to do with them - leave them there or take them to Darwin for further examination. She said, "I'm hungry, I want some food." After eating, her partner asked her again what she wanted to do with them. She said to leave them there.  The Police told her that they were a man and a woman, tribal people. She thinks they are her great great ... (uncertain how many greats) grandparents. She's thinking about having some kind of ceremony before the wet season, and burying them properly. 

Wow what a story. I felt privileged. She talked about how when the family is together on the country, they tell stories about the land, and customs. 

So I'm on my way to Darwin - sad to be leaving. I'm not sure if I'll be back, but it's hard to imagine never coming back. 

It was a good 3 weeks. Good times with patients. And quiet evenings, 2 long weekends to study. And a beach BBQ! Well, Monday was NT Picnic Day. (I think it's to do with the horse racing). We had about 12 staff & families- great fun. It's so beautiful there, and I was glad to get to the beach once this trip. 

Off to Royal Darwin Hospital now - for 5 days I'll be in emergency, getting revved up. I'm so looking forward to getting back to Nhulunbuy! Missing Tim a lot. But this emergency caper is recommended for all docs working in Nhulunbuy.  It's a good opportunity when I'm passing through. I'm a bit daunted, and glad I'm supernumerary. 

The women's centre has been painted. It looks good! I was there one day and Claver came in to sell a didgeridoo 

Sunset pic from the BBQ night. A bit symbolic really, but Wadeye remains close to my heart.

Wadeye 2015. And future direction

I'm back in Wadeye for 3 weeks. Yes, on my own - Tim is in Nhulunbuy, on the other side of the Territory. We moved to Nhulunbuy last week! It's a long story.. quickly, Andy asked us to consider moving up, so Tim could take on one of the GP Obstetrician posts in the hospital. So Tim has a full time hospital post.  I've taken 0.6 (3 days a week) and at this stage, happy to see how the other 2 days evolve. Part of it will be language study. I've enrolled in a unit to study Yolngu language and culture, at the uni in Darwin (that's online study).  Another part will be involvement with 3 lovely granddaughters.  What a special opportunity to spend time with Andy, Cathy, Georgi, Isabel and Violet!
All this only came up late January.  We were already committed to a locum in Wadeye, so we decided that I would do that, and Tim would start straight away in the hospital - the other guy has already left, which means that Andy is on his own with the registrar, till Tim's up & running.  And Andy has a bushwalk planned!
We had a good few days in Nhulunbuy last week, especially once boxes were unpacked. Good to feel a bit settled, and to have done some cleaning inside and out.  It was great to get there - the family were waiting at our house!  The leaving process from Leongatha was drawn out, and rather draining; lots of explanations and farewells, and a lot of work to move out of the house. However it was a very affirming time, with many people, both colleagues and patients, expressing appreciation for our involvement.  And a lot of tears! On all sides! We are so sad to leave Leongatha, and it's the longest I'd lived in any house. But of course it's a lot more than the house itself, it's relationships.
So here I am in Wadeye.  It's good to be back in this familiar situation, and to be reasonably comfortable with the processes here. I'm in the same house, very adequate.  The work is quiet at present, because it's the "bush holiday" and many people are away from town.  I hope there's enough work to justify me being here! It's good to be part of the team again.  There are a few new faces, and many I knew from before.
There are 2 public holidays during my 3 weeks here, which means I'll be able to get stuck into language study.  I'm also looking forward to getting out in the early mornings on days off, with the binoculars, to see birds, and just be in the bush.

New sign on the arcade. I bought fresh fish in the butcher's! Very good

Previous occupants unable to live close to others, due to a clan feud - this & adjacent houses had been empty for a while, now government employee housing 

Garden frangipani still alive & thriving.  One clinic team member said the people here survive, they are resilient, but they don't thrive. How I would love to see that turned around! I'm not naive enough to think that me being here will help much in that regard, but I'm supporting the longer term staff in their work, and perhaps making a difference for some patients.

On the way home

How good to be picked up at the finish by the local bus! We're on the way back to Leongatha, having collected luggage from the pile from the truck, and found our bus, packed bikes back in the boxes, and a quick change into fresh clothes. 

We inched past other buses - then I realised I'd left my phone & dry pouch with cash & credit card in the toilet where I'd changed - what an awful realisation! The bus stopped, I ran back - met a guy who approached me - he had them in his hand!! He was on the way to the Bicycle  Network office. Seeing me running, he guessed what it was about. What a nice end to that drama. Actually it's a picture of the sense of "we're all in this together", almost family, that develops on the ride - people looking out for each other.

It rained all night, but stopped for the pack up & breakfast. It doesn't matter that everything's wet! We had light rain for the ride, only 33km today. It felt like hard work, wet and cold. There was a rest stop at a chocolaterie which was fun. Warm & very crowded inside! 

So, the GVBR's done for this year. Will have to keep riding to keep the fitness levels up. 

It was so good to meet people at meals and in queues - some interesting conversations. Very good too, to spend time with Sue, Mick & Deb. We're wondering about another cycling holiday together sometime.

Nearly finished!

Can't quite believe tonight's the last night. We had a great rest day in Mansfield. It was still very hot, so we spent a lot of time in the town, sitting in the shade. Resting!

We wondered how it would be getting back on the bike. It was ok! That was yesterday - to Alexandra. Our group of 5 rode on the rail trail the whole way; actually the police requested that everyone take the rail trail, which some weren't happy about. It's a great trail - a bit rough (not sealed) - narrow & thin tyres are prone to puncture. We saw lots of people stopped at the side, replacing tubes. I got a flat back tyre as well. Anyway, we were in time to join the stretching class (Tim didn't), after a swim, & to explore Alexandra before tea. 

This morning it poured down over breakfast & rained on through the morning- fortunately we had the tent all packed & all our gear was on the truck - we carried the dishes & the toothbrushes in the panniers. 

Plenty of hills today, but the highlight would have to be riding the Black Spur, closed to traffic - what a privilege! And the rain had stopped in time for the road to dry. It was great! That was after lunch at Marysville - still raining there & with our lunch organised at an oval, the community opened up a huge hall, a basketball stadium, putting down carpet squares so our cleats wouldn't damage the floor. It was so good. Great to see Marysville looking good, down the track from the bushfires. 

Now at Healesville for our last night - lots of thankyous and awards; there's a real buzz. 

Rain forecast again for tomorrow - but why worry? It's not raining now!

Black Spur

Couldn't keep stopping for photos! But we loved whole hillsides covered with treeferns, all with striking new growth , and a towering, lofty over-storey of gums. 

Tent city - and a school group having a photo shoot

Rest day

We've made it to Mansfield.  Tim & I are on the GVBR (that's the Great Victorian Bike Ride). The route is from Albury to Lilydale: the scenic route on secondary roads. We're traveling and camping with 3 others, all doctor friends from Nepal days or before: Mick & Debbie Langford, & Sue Smith. We're taking it at our own pace and the pedals go round & round! 

We've ridden 335km so far, through beautiful country. 

Highlights:

* the overnight stops so far: Yackandah, Bright, Moyhu - & now Mansfield. We'd never heard of Moyhu! 500 people live there. The town had organised a great street party with stalls & activities. 

 * weather! We've had hot cycling days mostly. Lots of rain in Bright. The tent stayed dry

* Tawonga Gap! We made it. A steep, challenging climb in the heat, jelly beans given out at the top, a steep descent - controlled by the police - so not too fast. 1.5cm hailstones started on the way down & then the rain.

* we're getting fitter & stronger! No major injuries, but aching muscles. We've joined a stretching class the last 2 days, which has been great. 

* we enjoyed the option of riding on part of the Murray to Mountains Rail Trail. It's an excellent trail, sealed & through lovely country. We'd love to come back & ride some more. 

* the food has been good, & we're into a lunchtime routine: Tim collects the lunch & I get the coffee. We have panniers on our bikes & carry our mugs. (Also useful for transporting snacks). We need to eat & drink a lot, to keep the energy levels up. The lunchtime coffee is a real highlight for me, not least because it's the same family business at each stop, same as least year. I never cease to be amazed at how they're so friendly, & interested in everyone's riding experiences. 

* the queues for everything (meals, toilet, showers, coffee) can be long- but people are very chatty. 

* the organisation of the event is amazing - the set up, coordination, logistics, the volunteers - it's a well-oiled machine, & very relaxed & friendly. 

* it was so much fun to go to a show last night - combination of music, magic tricks, a theme of local Mansfield lore - linking Simon Gerrans, Ned Kelly & the bicycle. So talented & funny!

However. Yesterday there was a tragedy. A cyclist was killed by a collision with another cyclist ("clipped" - knocked off balance by another's wheel making contact), falling & then run over by a passing truck. This has put a somber feeling over everything, and we feel for his family & friends. Life is so vulnerable and can change so dramatically, so quickly.

Today is our rest day. Clothes washing, explore Mansfield, not too much bike riding, a swim maybe; lunch out - it's not provided today. Hoping it doesn't rain too much. It rained overnight, after we were all tucked in for the night. 

Haven't taken many photos! Here we are at the Hume Weir, day 1

& at a rest stop - people & bikes everywhere, reasonably chaotic. 

Two weeks

Well, nearly time to leave. It's early morning and the washing is on, noisy in the background but not quite drowning out the morning bird chorus and the wakening day.

Thinking about my time here, various aspects come to mind

* the team seems to be functioning well, and mostly the same as our recent visit

* it was so good to meet several patients again and to build on past visits. One lady saw me in the women's centre and said she'd like to buy my skirt!

* the community is in fighting mode. It's distressing, not only to us: many people are frightened to come out of their homes for shopping or their regular medicine.  They says it's the build up season (humid pre-wet season), or "mango madness". But it's cast a negative shadow on the atmosphere.  The police sent in the task force, once G20 was over, and things are a bit quieter now. But they say it's a superficial peace.  

* many are concerned that it's the children doing the fighting now, "because they can't be arrested" - there is talk of families sending children out to "fight for us".  And they have shotput sized rocks, and steel rods, off cuts from reinforcing rods.  Significant weapons!

* the main reason for me coming was to support and supervise Andrea, the GP registrar here.  It's been great to talk about medical stuff with her.  She's very capable.  We've been the only 2 doctors, till yesterday - a new locum arrived, and I spent time orientating him and helping with the computer program.  After work we had a drive around for some community orientation.

* exercise! I got sore knees walking in the first week, so borrowed some goggles and went swimming the second week, before work. The water temperature is 31-32deg!  I go home to get back on my bike, with the Great Vic Bike Ride starting in a week!

* the school principal and his wife have been here 3 years; they had planned to stay 4, but are leaving soon, very discouraged, feeling like nothing has changed. 

Change!  How challenging in any context.  Perhaps for some people more than others.  Certainly it's a process to embrace, with creativity, and openness.  Our ideas of how to achieve it may be partly wrong, or even totally ineffective.

Did anyone see "First Contact" on SBS this week? A 3-part series, 6 white Aussies immersed in Aboriginal culture for a month. It's very interesting! Highly edited I suppose, but it raises so many things, and it was great to see the ways they changed.  It was also great to hear the stories of the people they met, and the positive things that are happening, as well as the reality of life in various contexts. Try and see it!

So, I leave here on the afternoon plane, hang about in the airport, fly home overnight, pick up the car and drive home!  Might be home by 9am, which is 24 hours from now!  Feels a bit surreal.. A different world.  But I'm very much looking forward to getting home, seeing Tim, and Andy, Cathy and the girls are coming to stay for the week.  How good will that be!